The Islands of the Fraternal Order of Moai

Outgoing president Michelle Bachelet will visit the island in late November to hand over joint administration rights to [Rapa Nui national park] for a concession period of 50 years. But the negotiation of this agreement was made with a government body in which Chileans outnumber Rapa Nui – rather than the honui, the traditional local government made up of elders from the island’s 36 clans.

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"It’s almost impossible that a Rapa Nui will be elected to parliament,” says Pedro Edmunds Paoa, the combative mayor of Hanga Roa. “For 130 years we have been trying to dialogue with the Chilean state for the return of our lands and waters. I’ve worked with four presidents and they’ve all cheated the Rapa Nui people one way or another.”

Only 4,000 votes are up for grabs on the island, while she needs a minimum of 45,000 for a seat in the Valparaíso voting district, 3,600km away on the Chilean mainland.